Fluval Flex 57L Community Aquarium | Ember Tetra, Pygmy Corys & Endlers | Cinematic Aquascape.

What happens in a fully stocked Fluval Flex 57L after feeding? Watch Ember Tetras, Pygmy Corydoras, Endlers, and Cherry Shrimp bring this planted nano aquarium to life.

This peaceful aquascape features a total of ...

• 9 Ember Tetras
• 7 Pygmy Corydoras
• 3 Scarlet Red Endlers
• 3 Orange Endlers
• 5 Red Cherry Shrimp
• 3 Otocinclus 

(My three Otocinclus were grazing behind the driftwood during filming, and a few of the Cory Cats were resting in the stargrass towards the back)

This Fluval Flex 57L setup is nearly fully stocked, with plans to add a few more Red Cherry Shrimp soon to expand the colony.

The video is set to my original ambient composition, “Whispers of the Deep,” created to complement the aquarium's natural flow and tranquillity.

If you enjoy freshwater community tanks, nano aquariums, aquascaping inspiration, or relaxing aquarium videos with original music, consider subscribing for more content.

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An introduction to Red Cherry Shrimp (Neocaridina davidi)

The red cherry shrimp (Neocaridina davidi) is a petite, vibrantly coloured freshwater crustacean that has become a favourite among aquarium hobbyists for its dazzling ruby hue, hardiness, and prolific breeding. Native to the streams and rice paddies of Taiwan, these shrimp thrive in well‑filtered tanks with stable parameters—pH 6.5–7.5, a temperature range of 20–26 °C (68–78 °F) and plenty of live or artificial plants that provide both grazing surfaces and refuge from predatory fish. 

Their omnivorous diet consists of biofilm, algae, detritus, and specially formulated shrimp pellets, which not only keep them healthy but also help maintain water quality by cleaning excess nutrients. Social by nature, red cherries do best in groups of at least ten, where they display gentle, inquisitive behaviour and engage in fascinating moulting rituals that reveal their translucent exoskeletons. Because of their rapid life cycle—maturing in 2–3 months and producing dozens of offspring each batch—these shrimp are an excellent entry point for beginners eager to observe the rewarding cycle of growth, colouration changes, and the delicate balance of a thriving micro‑ecosystem.

🦐 Red Cherry Shrimp

Red Cherry Shrimp are one of the most popular freshwater aquarium shrimp in the world. They’re colourful, hardy, and beginner-friendly, which makes them perfect for small planted tanks.

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🔎 Basic Information

• Scientific name: Neocaridina davidi

• Origin: Taiwan

• Size: 1–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm)

• Lifespan: 1–2 years

• Temperament: Peaceful

• Difficulty: Easy

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🌈 Appearance

• Bright red colouration (males are usually lighter, females darker and more solid red).

• Females are larger and may show a “saddle” (eggs developing behind the head).

• Colour intensity depends on genetics, diet, and tank conditions.

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🏠 Tank Requirements

• Tank size: 5 gallons (20L) minimum

• Temperature: 68–78°F (20–26°C)

• pH: 6.5–7.5

• Water hardness: Moderate (they need minerals for moulting)

• Plants & moss: Highly recommended (Java moss is ideal)

They love hiding places like driftwood, moss, and shrimp caves.

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🍽️ Diet

• Algae and biofilm (their natural food)

• Shrimp pellets

• Blanched vegetables (zucchini, spinach)

• Occasional protein treats

Avoid overfeeding — small amounts once per day is enough.

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🐣 Breeding

Red Cherry Shrimp breed easily in stable conditions.

• Females carry 20–30 eggs under their abdomen.

• Eggs hatch in about 2–3 weeks.

• Babies are tiny versions of adults (no larval stage).

No special setup is needed if the tank is safe and stable.

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⚠️ Tank Mates

Best kept:

• In shrimp-only tanks

• With small peaceful fish (like nano rasboras)

Avoid:

• Large or aggressive fish (they may eat shrimp)

Fish‑Keeping Differences From the ‘80s to the Digital Age.

Keeping tropical fish in the mid-1980s was noticeably different from today. It was less high-tech, less information-rich, and often more trial-and-error. Here’s how it compares:

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1) Equipment & Technology

Then (around the 1980s)

• Basic filtration: Undergravel filters and simple hang-on-back filters were common.

• Limited lighting: Standard fluorescent tubes; plant growth was harder without specialised bulbs.

• Manual control: Heaters were less precise; no smart thermostats or controllers.

• Few testing tools: Basic pH and ammonia kits; liquid kits were slower and less accurate.

Now

• Advanced filtration: Canister filters, sponge filters for breeding, and powerful bio-media.

• LED lighting: Customizable spectrum and intensity—great for planted tanks.

• Automation: Digital heaters, timers, auto-top-off systems, even app-controlled setups.

• Accurate testing: Quick, reliable liquid kits and digital monitors for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, GH, KH, etc.

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2) Knowledge & Information

Then

• Information came from

  • Local fish stores

  • Printed books (e.g., works by authors like Innes)

  • Hobbyist clubs

• The nitrogen cycle was known, but not always well explained to beginners.

• Many fish were sold without much guidance—cycling mistakes were common.

Now

• Instant access to:

  • YouTube tutorials

  • Aquarium forums

  • Scientific care sheets

• Better understanding of:

  • Fishless cycling

  • Species-specific water chemistry

  • Stress, disease prevention, and enrichment

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3) Fish Availability & Breeding

Then

• More fish were wild-caught.

• Fewer selectively bred colour morphs.

• Limited availability of delicate species.

• Breeding success required deeper hobby knowledge and patience.

Now

• Many species are tank-bred, hardier, and adapted to aquarium life.

• Huge variety of colour strains (e.g., guppies, bettas).

• Easier access to rare species via speciality breeders.

• Better live/frozen food options.

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4) Aquascaping & Plants

Then

• Plastic plants and gravel dominated.

• True aquascaping was niche.

• CO₂ systems were rare and DIY.

Now

• Nature-style aquascaping inspired by figures like Takashi Amano.

• Pressurised CO₂ systems are common.

• Specialised substrates for plant growth.

• High-end aquascaping competitions worldwide.

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5) Fish Welfare

Then

• Smaller tanks were often considered fine for species we now know need more space.

• Overstocking was common.

• Less awareness of enrichment and social needs.

Now

• Stronger emphasis on:

  • Proper tank size

  • Species compatibility

  • Ethical sourcing

  • Quarantine procedures

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6) Cost & Accessibility

Then

• Equipment was simpler but proportionally expensive.

• Fewer budget brands.

• More DIY solutions.

Now

• Wide price range from budget to premium.

• Online ordering of fish and supplies.

• More beginner-friendly starter kits.

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The Overall Difference

40 years ago, keeping tropical fish was more hands-on and experiential—you learned by doing (and sometimes losing fish). Today, it’s more science-based, accessible, and welfare-focused, with technology making success much easier for beginners.

If you’ve kept fish before, I’m curious—are you thinking of getting back into it after a long break?

Fish‑Keeper’s Folly: Life Before the Lab The Age of Unmeasured Waters,

The saying “We didn’t test water in my day” usually comes from people who kept hardy fish, had fewer options, and accepted higher levels of loss. The hobby has changed a lot — and so has the understanding of fish health.

Here’s why regular water testing matters today:

1. You Can’t See Most Problems

Water can look crystal clear and still be toxic.

The biggest killers in aquariums are invisible:

 Ammonia – burns gills, lethal even at low levels

 Nitrite – prevents oxygen transport (“brown blood disease”)

 Nitrate – stresses fish long-term

 pH swings – cause shock

Before hobbyists understood the nitrogen cycle, fish deaths were often blamed on “bad luck.” Now we know better.

2. Modern Tanks Are More Stocked (and More Delicate)

Today we keep:

 Sensitive fish like discus or dwarf cichlids

 Invertebrates like shrimp (which are very parameter-sensitive)

 Reef tanks with corals that demand stable chemistry

A saltwater reef tank, for example, needs stable alkalinity, calcium, and magnesium — something rarely measured decades ago.

3. Tap Water Isn’t the Same Anymore

Municipal water supplies now commonly use:

 Chloramine (harder to neutralise than chlorine)

 Variable mineral content

 Seasonal changes in chemistry

Testing helps you understand what you’re adding during water changes.

4. Prevention Is Cheaper Than Replacing Fish

A £20 to £30 test kit can prevent:

 Fish losses

 Algae outbreaks

 Crashes in cycling tanks

It’s like checking oil in a car — not mandatory every day, but smart maintenance.

5. The Hobby Is More Science-Based Now

In the past:

 Fish were often treated as disposable.

 Losses during cycling were common.

Now:

 We fishless-cycle tanks.

 We quarantine.

 We test to prevent suffering.

The goal isn’t just “fish survive.” It’s fish thrive.

So Why Test?

You should regularly test because:

 New tanks are unstable.

 Stocking changes affect bio-load.

 Overfeeding spikes ammonia.

 Filters fail.

 Water suppliers change treatment.

Even experienced aquarists test when:

 Fish act stressed.

 Something smells “off.”

 They change equipment.

Bottom Line

They didn’t test “back in the day” because:

 The science wasn’t widespread.

 Expectations were lower.

 Fish losses were normalised.

Today, we test because we can, we understand why, and we care more about long-term fish health.

My article, "Fish‑Keeper’s Folly: Life Before the Lab," details the historical lack of regular aquarium water testing and explains why it’s so important today.